Ice
24 posts, 9 voices
| Christian 19 posts | Are there any thoughts about an Ice conditions database? I don't go back to Becher very often but I do spend a lot of time on Arrowsmith during the winter. I know that I would like to contribute to a "latest conditons" kind of thing and would certainly appreciate any beta from others on the state of Island ice this winter. I was usually posting on West Coast Ice last year but a more local forum might work better. |
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ericgoodwin
Administator
57 posts
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Sounds like a good idea Christian. I'll add Arrowsmith to the areas right away and then add a current conditions section later tonight hopefully. |
| john 99 posts | I'm working on a guide for the Boston falls ice. I've climbed many of the routes at boston lake , plus a few new lines. Even a bolted mixed route (maybe the first on the island?) There are 4 main 120m high routes plus about half a dozen smaller ones around the lake. |
| Panda 9 posts | Kinda new to ice climbs on the Island. Just wondering how many people climb ice in the Comox area? As I am going to be in that area for the winter. And where is the best ice to be found? |
| Christian 19 posts | Depends on what you are after really. Straight waterfall ice can be found back at Mt Becher's Boston Falls (that'd be John's hideout and he's the one with all the beta). I play mostly at Mt Arrowsmith. There's a beginners area there called the "icebox". Probably everone you meet is going to tell you about that place. It's actually only a very small part of the ice climbing on that massif. At lower elevations is the "weepy wall" and the two more burly climbs at the "Cokely wall". Up higher is the "Newman-Foweraker" route as well as the numerous gullies that transect the nose and NW Buttress. These are all more "alpine" in nature and if that is indeed your thing you'll be happy to know that they will form up shortly and stay in till late spring. Other alpine objectives include Mt Colonel Foster, Big Den, and Mt Cobb. Victoria peak still has yet to receive a winter ascent. There's also a crapload of waterfalls on the way to Sandbag lake at the south end of Buttle lake. Drop me a line at bigrunout@gmail.com and we'll talk some more about the island ice situation. |
| Panda 9 posts | Hi Christian Hey I have tried a couple of times to get you a e-mail with no reply? Anyhow I am very interested in the ice climbing areas on the Island. I can lead up to 6 and prefer to climb around 4ish more over all fun. I am very interested in doing a winter accent of Mt Victoria. So if anybody is interested? |
| Panda 9 posts | Thanks for the reply. I have heard this year is going to be colder then last. I can hardly wait! |
| john 99 posts | oh, looks like a few groups are looking at Victoria peak. I tried the scepter route a few winters ago with Curtis. fresh snow. no good |
| Panda 9 posts | Wow I just a bit more research on Victoria peak sounds like a huge challenge but worth it. Must be loads of great climbs to do in the winter. Arrowsmith sounds like a good time with fairly easy access. What about Boston falls area how hard are the routes? Is there a water fall ice Island guide book? Thanks in advance for any info. It's looking so good to move to Comox now. |
| john 99 posts | Phil stone's "Island Alpine" is the only guide for ice and rock on the island. I made a small pdf for this site at the "boston falls" area but it doesn't seem to be working. I could email the pdf to you? The weather changes so often here in the winter the ice is temperamental, atleast compare to the rockies. there are not many ice climbers on the island, Boston falls area has mostly grade 3's and the main falls has a short grade 4 section to finish. To get good consistent water ice you need to be around 1000m elevation or higher. Pretty well all roads at that elevation are covered in 10 feet of snow, so access can be slow. |
| Panda 9 posts | Hi John Thanks for the information. So does the ice form yearly or not really? Or is it that getting to the climbs is hard because of snow fall. Just trying to get a good idea as to what the winter may have in store. |
| Christian 19 posts | The climbs will form and disappear often throughout the winter, especially at the lower elevations. The high alpine climbs generally stay in all season, but, as the winter continues there is more and more trouble with access. The more early season snow with good freeze thaw cycles will give great climbs, however the more snow the longer the approach. I've climbed 3 foot thick (read island FAT) ice on the weepy wall in the beginning of December almost right from my car, then next week the climb was gone only to reform a month later with a 45 minute walk in, and a windstorm. Touchy Island winter weather can sometimes be the biggest issue. A good reference for if there's ice or not is the NAVCANADA weather page which shows freezing levels http://www.flightplanning.navcanada.ca/Latest/gfa/anglais/Latest-gfacn31_turbc_000-e.html. I used to climb mostly in the Rockies and I really enjoy the different type of climbing on the Island, but it's hard to get the right conditions to be in time with days-off. Sometimes you just have to drop everything and get the climbing while it's there. I tried 6 times last year to climb the Newman-Foweraker before I finally had the right conditions (avalanche and ice). Good to hear that there's another ice-guy on the Island. |
| Panda 9 posts | Ok so I guess their is no real way of knowing anything untill the weekend you are climbing. That sucks abit. What about Sand bag lake is that at a elevation that would produce ice? Tried to find Sand bag lake and could not. Must be ice forming with this cold snap yes? I hope so and can hardly wait to get on some of those Alpine ice gulleys. |
| Christian 19 posts | Ice! Climbed Weepy Wall yesterday. Thin but coming into good shape. Going to have a look at "Crystal Chandalier" on the Cokely Wall today I'll post what I find. |
| stew 5 posts | Christian, if you are willing to take someone that will belay and second i am always interested on the weekends. I have all gear except screws and double rope. Let me know cause i want to learn. I have done some ice and want to start leading. |
| Christian 19 posts | Sure, drop me a line at bigrunout@gmail.com. Latest conditions are excellent ice BAD APPROACH! Big sluffs and a few avalanches yesterday. On the good side, I haven't seen the Cokely wall in that good of shape yet! I think it's going to be a good ice year. |
| Christian 19 posts | Latest from Arrowsmith. 4 x 4 access as far as Main Snow Gully approach, after that it gets pretty deep. Went and had a go at Weepy Wall, not so good, pretty thin. Good idea to wait for a high alt melt and re-freeze. Hopefully soon. |
| camerona91 4 posts | Anyone been up to the Ice Box recently or other ice on Arrowsmith? Was thinking of doing Main Gully, but avalanche risk is high, so looking for an alternative. Is Ice Box in? Anything on Arrowsmith? Suggestions? |
| Andy Arts 6 posts | Where is the Ice Box? Thanks |
| islandclimber 12 posts | The Ice Box is a ways up the Main Gully route on mount Arrosmith, its a little box canyon that sometimes forms short ice climbs |
| camerona91 4 posts | You park at the huge right facing switchback about a km or so before the Saddle Route/ Weepy Wall. It is past the Judge's Route parking lot. The trail can be found across the ditch on the swtich back. After about 100m it goes down and crosses a creek. You then follow the trail up the hill to a tree with 2 or 3 bands of flagging. Go right for Main Gully and for left for the Ice Box (.75-1.5 hours depending on conditions). Anyone know current ice conditions up there? Any climbable ice formed yet? What about at Boston Falls? |
| john 99 posts | i heard boston looked nice a few days ago. but things can change. a long snow slog in |
| cwyckham 3 posts | Went up to the ice box Saturday. Road plowed to the first switchback and passable with 2wd and chains. Trail is passable without snowshoes with only a few postholes resulting. Took a few hours to approach. Not much up there, though. One climb in shape with about 8-10' of vertical, blue ice, then kicking back to very low angle ice with snow on it. This is located on the left as you enter the canyon and is about 6' wide. Probably only room for one toprope. None of the climbs inside the canyon are formed. This was my first time up there, so I'm only surmising that there tends to be more inside the canyon where there were only a few icicles hanging down on the left side. |
| cwyckham 3 posts | Note for others trying to find icebox for the first time: There are many trees with a couple bands of flagging. Don't go left too early like we did. The actual tree is much farther up than you'll expect, near the treeline. It has four bands of flagging, two yellow and two pink. Icebox is written on the flagging. The climbs are only about 50m off to your left at that point. |
