Possible new ice climb - short approach
7 posts, 4 voices
| mort 2 posts | Climbed new-to-me ice route near Mt.Washington yesterday. 70m WI 2-3. Fat ice. Short, easy approach of less than one hour. North facing. It is visible through the trees to the southeast when XC skiing the Far East trail at Mt.Washington. It sits just above Paradise Creek. Base at 939m UTM 0335933E 5508997N To approach: Park at small pullout by Ramparts Creek bridge on Mt. Washington Parkway (just before road climbs right to Sunrise chair lot). Hike south on old gravel access road just southwest of bridge. A bit more than a km along this road it meets the groomed Far East ski trail. Follow this generally south most of a km until you can look through the trees southeast down the Paradise Creek drainage and see the route. I left the groomed trail at 0335484E 5509678N and headed down a sharp bank with young trees. You are soon in a clear cut, continue SE and pick up a new logging road that takes you near to the route. Cross Paradise Creek, was only partially frozen, I crossed about 100m west of the route. A logging road is on the south side of the creek. Could access this by snowmobile or ski if you knew the new road network. Road goes right by base of route. 3.2 km hike in. Descent: Walk off to east (climbers left), maybe 10 minutes. Notes: Owing to its moderate angle, the route will collect snow, and is probably at its best early in the season. It has a good water supply and is north facing so it will fill in rapidly when cold enough. Fat ice took 22 cm screws at 40m belay. Then finish second pitch to tree belay. If in fact a new route, then call it Paradise Logged 70m WI 2-3 Mort Allingham/Karen Hoover. I find it hard to believe that no one else has climbed it given its visibility from the ski trail. Perhaps not many XC skiers ice climb. I will try to post a couple of photos I took the week before on a scouting trip. |
| john 163 posts | try this for a google map http://maps.google.ca/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=&daddr=49.710844,-125.275655&geocode=&hl=en&mra=mi&mrsp=0&sz=14&sll=49.716322,-125.269461&sspn=0.031078,0.066175&dirflg=w&ie=UTF8&ll=49.722204,-125.278645&spn=0.031074,0.098877&t=h&z=14 |
| guy 3 posts | Hi Mort, Thanks for the detailed beta. We're going to go in a try it on Thursday. Hope the cool weather holds. Guy |
| touchingthevoid 11 posts | Hey just wondering how you made out on Thursday? I might be heading up there this weekend and might check the area out of the ice is still in. Thanks! |
| john 163 posts | Touching, let my know what day you were thinking. You could call me. I'm going to the Cumby gym tomorrow night. |
| guy 3 posts | Climbed the route today. Just as Mort says. Pretty fun and close by. Ice was in great shape dispite the warm temps. |
| touchingthevoid 11 posts | Thinking about heading up there early Sunday, probably going to snowshoe in (i dont XC ski yet). Hoping the ice is still good. I haven't yet been to the Cumby gym, i usually head up to Campbell river a couple nights a week though. |
